Grand Pamir Lakes Traverse: Sarez to Zaroshkul

Itinerary

1. Day 1

   Arrival in Dushanbe. Early-morning arrival and a few hours' rest at the hotel. In the afternoon, explore Dushanbe and do last shopping at the bazaar. Stay: Hotel in Dushanbe.

2. Day 2

   Dushanbe. A free day in Dushanbe to rest and prepare. Stay: Hotel in Dushanbe.

3. Day 3

   Dushanbe – Kalai Khumb (1,550 m) · 7–8 h. Onto the Pamir Highway. After the good first stretch, 'highway' mostly refers to the altitude: the road follows the roaring Panj along the Afghan border, past mountain walls and over steep slopes. Stay: Guesthouse in Kalai Khumb.

4. Day 4

   Kalai Khumb – Barchidiv (2,610 m) · 8 h. One of the most beautiful drives in Central Asia: along the Pamir Highway, then into the remote Bartang Valley, with friendly villages under glaciated peaks. Stay: Homestay in Barchidiv.

5. Day 5

   Trek 1 · Barchidiv – Khurmochaz (2,785 m) · 13 km. Meet the local crew and load the donkeys. Follow the Murgab River, born in the Afghan Wakhan, among six-thousand-metre peaks. An easy first day to adjust; camp past the 'Tea House', a shepherds' shelter under a huge boulder. About 5 hours, +550 m / −375 m. Stay: Tent camp.

6. Day 6

   Trek 2 · Khurmochaz – Lake Sarez (3,300 m) · 8 km. Climb to the top of the natural dam created by a giant landslide over a century ago, with sapphire-blue Lake Sarez behind it. Camp by the guard post that watches for earthquakes. 5–6 hours, +800 m / −225 m. Stay: Tent camp.

7. Day 7

   Trek 3 · Lake Sarez – Langar Valley (3,545 m) · 13 km. With a special permit, cross Lake Sarez by boat (0.5–1.5 h) to the weather station. Then up the wide, U-shaped Langar Valley through one of the last original forests of the Pamirs, a river ford and scree slopes to camp by the Safedxats glacier stream. 5–5.5 hours, +550 m. Stay: Tent camp.

8. Day 8

   Trek 4 · Langar Valley – Zaurbek camp – Uchkul (4,260 m). An early start to ford the river at low water. Climb to the large high camp of the legendary shepherd Zaurbek for a rare look at shepherd life at altitude, then continue to camp north of the second Uchkul lake. About 9.5 km plus 5 km, +700 m. Stay: Tent camp.

9. Day 9

   Trek 5 · Uchkul – Chapdarkul – Qarghizshabar (4,250 m) · 18 km. Past the fork to the Langar Pass (4,630 m) to the dramatic Chapdarkul lake (4,530 m) for lunch on the shore, then down to a high meadow. 7–8 hours. Stay: Tent camp.

10. Day 10

    Trek 6 · Qarghizshabar – Bughromolbun · 15 km. Along a classic glacier-carved valley of summer pastures (aylaqs) where shepherds graze large herds of fat-tailed sheep and goats, down towards the Ghund River. 4–6 hours. Stay: Tent camp.

11. Day 11

    Trek 7 · Bughromolbun – Bachor · 20 km. An easy walk along the Ghund River, partly through what locals call a forest, back to Bachor village. Stay: Homestay in Bachor (3,320 m).

12. Day 12

    Rest day in Bachor. Rest, walk around the village and get to know the daily life, traditions and culture of the Pamiri people. Stay: Homestay in Bachor.

13. Day 13

    Trek 8 · Bachor – Kavk · 17.5 km. Load the donkeys and head north into the deserted, rugged Pamirs to camp near Kavk, surrounded by 5,000 m peaks. 7–8 hours, +520 m. Stay: Tent camp (about 3,700 m).

14. Day 14

    Trek 9 · Kavk – Tsakhinkul (4,310 m) · 11 km. As far from civilisation as it gets: a hearty breakfast, then six hours up to Lake Tsakhin with snow-capped views. +600 m. Stay: Tent camp.

15. Day 15

    Trek 10 · Tsakhinkul – Zaroshkul · 10 km. Over old moraines, either via the Tsakhin Pass (4,520 m) with pack animals or along the rocky stream, to Zaroshkul, the 'golden lake' with its hanging glacier and one of the most photogenic lakes in Central Asia. It gets very cold after sunset. 4–5 hours. Stay: Tent camp.

16. Day 16

    Trek 11 · Zaroshkul – Shtik Lazar Pass (4,840 m) – Shosh · 13 km. The highest point of the trek: a tough climb to the glaciated pass over rocky moraine, with views of Peak Revolution (6,940 m), then a 1,100 m descent to the junction with the Bardara Valley. About 7 hours. Stay: Tent camp at Shosh (3,720 m).

17. Day 17

    Trek 12 · Shosh – Ilga pasture · 10 km. Down the warmer Bardara Valley to Gulzor for lunch, then on to the Ilga summer pasture. About 6 hours. Stay: Tent camp (3,520 m).

18. Day 18

    Trek 13 · Ilga – Bardara · 18 km. A long but easy descent as trees return and the valley becomes cultivated, through a small gorge to Bardara, one of the most beautiful villages of the Pamirs. Carry plenty of water. 6–7 hours. Stay: Homestay in Bardara (2,850 m).

19. Day 19

    Free day in Bardara. Eat, sleep and explore Pamiri village life at a very slow pace. Stay: Homestay in Bardara.

20. Day 20

    Bardara – Kalai Khumb · 6–8 h. The drivers pick you up for the drive down the Bartang Valley and along the Panj to Kalai Khumb. Stay: Guesthouse in Kalai Khumb.

21. Day 21

    Kalai Khumb – Dushanbe · 8 h. An early start to reach Dushanbe for the afternoon and a farewell dinner at a restaurant. Stay: Hotel in Dushanbe.

22. Day 22

    Spare day in Dushanbe. A buffer day to relax and recover, or to absorb weather delays on the trek. Stay: Hotel in Dushanbe.

23. Day 23

    Departure. Transfer to the airport and flight home.